for me by me

Sew Weekly

2012-01-26T06:01:00.001-08:00

Sew Weekly is a site worth discovering! Each week there is a sewing challenge set which acts as inspiration for a new creation. Last week was "All Buttoned-up" which inspired the button tabs on the skirt I just made. This week the challenge is "Make the Look". The idea is to create an outfit based on a look you have seen. I am making good progress with my Chanel Jacket but I haven't got time to sew anything else. Just for fun though, this is what I would do:

My look:

I have always loved this DvF dress worn by Kate Middleton. Her dress is silk but I think this could be made is any silky or viscose fabric, or even a knit could give you the same look. As for patterns:

I love the Lisette Itinerary Dress (Simplicity 2060) although that has a yolk. This Vogue pattern (1207) has the V-back that Kate's dress has:

Simplicity 2211

2012-01-22T02:58:00.001-08:00

Even though I said I was back sewing in JULY 2011, obviously, I wasn't really! It has taken me until now to really get my mojo back. I thought I would start off with a quick and easy project to get me going. I have this lovely wool tweed in my stash and I wanted a simple shape as the wool is quite thick.

Pattern Description: An A line skirt with belt tabs.

Pattern Sizing:multi sized

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes

Were the instructions easy to follow?Yes, though I changed the waist detail because I was working with thick fabric ( see below for details)

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? This is a quick and easy pattern that is really easy to wear. It came together beautifully.

Fabric Used: Wool tweed

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: I pretty much sewed this straight out of the packet. The fit is certainly really good. I did change the waist because after I had sewn the petersham waistband it was too bulky to turn to the inside as you would do normally. This was largely because of the fabric I was using and the tab details, even though I used lining for the inside of the tabs, not fabric as the instructions said. So, what I did was to first sew petersham on the wrong side, then also on to the front, encasing the top of the waist ( I hope that make sense!). I love Boden clothes and I notice that quite a few of their skirts are made like this. It means there is no bulk at all at the waist.

I also put in an invisible zipper.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? Yes, I want to make the view with pleats next time in a lighter fabric for spring.

Conclusion: Simple enough for a beginner and a great wardrobe builder for everyone.

Next on the cutting table:

A black Chanel jacket. It is already cut out with extra seam allowances ready for the quilting.

Back Sewing

2011-07-20T02:49:00.001-07:00

This is the reason why I haven't been sewing for over a year! Georgia was born on Christmas Day 2010. She is an absolute joy to have and a very placid, easy baby.

I have almost got back to the size I was B.G. and I am itching to get sewing again. I love a SWAP (Sewing With a Plan) and I have been inspired to join the Artisan Square 6 piece Autumn Wardrobe sew along. The idea is that you sew 2 garments a month in August, September and October, all of which coordinate to form a mix and match wardrobe. Georgia goes to bed at around 6.30pm so I am hoping that this should be completely do-able. I am returning to work in September so I am planning a "career wardrobe". I have chosen 5 fabrics so far:

The two on the left are for skirts, the white is an Italian shirting, the black is a spotted chiffon for a tie neck blouse and the blue is a stretch wool mix for a tailored jacket. I still need one more fabric for another top but I will decide on that later.

Now I need to venture up into the loft for my patterns.....

Navy Dress: Butterick 5302

2010-03-14T00:02:00.000-08:00

Photos to follow shortly: I am still having technical problems.

This is my first project in some time and I am really pleased with the outcome. This is the first of my 'inspired by Michelle Obama' wardrobe. I do not want to make carbon copies of her clothes, rather channel her style into what will work for my lifestyle, afterall, I don't have too many sate dinners to attend in the next few weeks! I love that this pattern is much more interesting than the simple shift and it looks more complicated to make than it is.

Pattern Review:

Pattern Description:

MISSES' DRESS: Straight, fitted dresses A, B, C, mid-knee, have front pleats, raised waist seam and back zipper. A: self-faced cap sleeves. B: three-quarter length sleeves. C: long sleeves.

Pattern Sizing:

Misses 8-14. I made a size 10-12 in a stretch woven.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?

Yes! I made view B, the version with 3/4 length sleeves.

Were the instructions easy to follow?

The instructions were really easy. Don't be put off by the pleats at the neckline. As long as you follow the arrows and match the small dots to the large dots it works really well. Everything else is just like a straight shift dress pattern.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?

This is a copy of Michelle Obama's dress by Maria Pinto and I am trying to emulate her style right now. I love the pleats at the neckline which makes this dress more interesting than your standard sheath.

Fabric Used:

A Navy blue with white pin-stripe stretch wool blend.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:

Fit: It is really difficult to make a toile for stretch fabrics so I fitted as I went. I cut a size 10 at the top and graded to a size 12 at the bottom. This gave a pretty good fit but I still had to take it in a little in the centre back and alter the side seams slightly to give a good fit. On the whole, I would say this pattern is pretty true to size.

Lining: I decided to line the dress. I didn't add the facings. Instead, I just made an exact copy of the dress in lining fabric and then sewed them edge to edge. I understitched the neckline as carefully I could and I also did little catch stitches around the neck to get the pleats to lie flat and in place. I just lined the body of the dress and serged the lining to the armhole seam allowance. I added some thread chains at the waist and hem to hold the lining in place.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?

I am not sure I want two of these dresses as the neckline is so distinctive but I would definitely recommend this pattern to others, particularly for career wear.

Conclusion:

I wore this to work and I got lots of complements, including being asked if I was going for an interview! I haven't sewn very much lately and this project has really spurred me on.

Mini Wardrobe Contest on Pattern Review

2010-03-09T11:45:00.000-08:00

I really enjoyed participating in a mini wardrobe contest last year so I have decided to take the plunge again. I have so far finalised three garments: a lavender pencil skirt, a pink and lavender chiffon blouse and a purple floral dress. I plan to make a jacket as my fourth garment but I am undecided on fabric (purple) and the pattern. I will post an updated story board as soon as I have resolved that issue, as well as the other issue of locating my camera! (Actually I can't post any picture for some reason!) The contest starts on 15 March so get planning if you want to take part. I highly recommend it!

I have almost finished the Butterick dress. I am really pleased with it.I have just the hems on the sleeves and skirt to do.

The first step:patterns ordered

2010-02-11T13:42:00.001-08:00

There are a few very tentative signs that spring is on its way and it is light by 7.30am for my morning drive to work. So I feel the urge to start on my spring wardrobe. I am going to Iceland next week which I have decided will be my personal official end to winter (ha!). I am an utter failure at SWAP: Sewing With A Plan, yet I do feel the urge to move in that direction and certainly like the concpt, if not the execution. I have posted before about my admiration for Michelle Obama's fashion sense so I have decided to created clothes inspired by her. Not as in a planned wardrobe but a vague direction to head towards. Neat shift dresses are the first things I think of so I have ordered these two patterns:

The first attracted me after seeing Erica B's one shoulder version and because it offers good variations for the bodice. It think this is a great idea giving value for money and helps with pattern fitting.

The second pattern is a direct copy of the dress Mrs O wore when she first went to the White House. Vogue also have a version of this dress but is only suitable for knits. Butterick's pattern uses stable knits or stretch wovens.

I won't be sewing for a couple of weeks but at least the preparations have begun.

Progress Report

2009-09-08T12:04:00.000-07:00

I have been back at school for a while now so I haven't done as much sewing as I would like but I am determined to keep it up. Writing this post is partly aimed at keeping me focused. That said, I have made some progress:

Winter Coat. I am SO close to finishing this. I have attended some Own Choice sewing days at the Modern Approach Sewing School where the lovely Janet Moville has helped me with new speed tailoring techniques such as putting in a sleeve head, how to correctly use shoulder pads, what a plaston is and how to do a bagged lining. I am really pleased with what I have done, though it takes a lot of time. I think I have spent over 5 days on my coat already! I just have to finish the lining and do the button holes.
Wardrobe in a Week: or month or year! My first top was a complete wadder! My grey skirt looks good but is unfinished. The last two items are still large rectangles of fabric.
Chanel Jacket: the nearest I got was watching the Signe Chanel Jacket on You Tube! So no sewing done but I can thoroughly recommend this documentary made for the BBC.

Just because I am short on time to bring the ideas I already have got to fruition doesn't mean I mean I need any less inspiration. I love Hobbs clothes and they have just brought out a new collection called NW3, named after Hampstead, the spiritual and historic home of Hobbs. Yet again, I advise you to hide your credit card before going to their website!

Wardrobe in a week (WIAW)

2009-08-17T08:53:00.000-07:00

On the Artisan's Square Stitchers Guild Forum you can join in this just for fun competition. You have this week to prepare, then next week to sew any four coordinating garments. I am seeing this as a prelude to the SWAP on Pattern Review which starts in September (11 garments). My aim is to make a casual collection to wear with a green jacket I bought last year.

Tartan Cotton: Shirt BWOF1/2008 107

Navy Cotton Velvet: simple above knee A line Skirt from Sew U book (no pics as from book)

Charcoal 100% wool flannel: A line skirt with front inverted pleat and front pockets adapted from Sew U pattern

Red Stripe Jersey: boat neck top from Sew U stretch book

My target is to complete my preparation by Friday. I have even made myself a to-do list!

Boat neck top: cut out, iron seam tape to neck edge
Shirt: cut out, interface collar and cuffs
Blue skirt: redraft pattern so it fits, cut out, interface waist-facing
Grey Skirt: cut out, interface waist-facing.

Initially, I wasn't sure about separating the preparation from the sewing, as opposed to making each garment in turn. I have to say though, it has helped to ensure my plans are finalised before I plunge in. I think one of the mistakes I make with the 11 garment SWAP is that I was a little vague on a few of my garments before I began, I then made some rushed choices which didn't really work. Hopefully, this one will turn out better.

Two muslins made

2009-08-13T06:13:00.001-07:00

No, I haven't become an ice-cream seller. This is my muslin for Butterick 5145. I am pretty happy with the fit, it just needs a few tweeks. The waist is too low on me, it is supposed to be a raised waist, I also think it is a little big at the top. I have taken out the back pleat because it was just too big and unnecessary. I have also moved the pocket. I originally made the patch pockets but I thought they may look a bit cheap and the fabric I have chosen may be a little thick for them. I have just used the tabs in the waist seam. I am quite taken by this coat in the new Boden catalogue ( apart from the yellow buttons)

I am not doing any more to this at the moment, I am going on another sewing day in a couple of weeks so I am going to make it then.

I have also made a muslin of the boat neck t-shirt from the Sew U book. It is too big for me as I made the medium because lots of reviews said how small the patterns are in this book, however I think a small will fit better. The neck opening is also too large so I will adjust that.

This is going to be part of my casual mini-collection for the WIAW (wardrobe in a week) on Artisan Square. I haven't chosen everything yet but I have some striped jersey for this top and purple cord and grey flannel for two A line skirts from the Sew U book. I hope to make a checked shirt for my second top but I haven't found the right fabric yet. Preparation starts on Friday and sewing is the following week.

A married lady and a planner

2009-08-12T00:21:00.000-07:00

On 17th July I became a married lady. The day was absolutely wonderful, better than I could have possibly hoped for and I will treasure my memories forever. We went on honeymoon to Lake Garda, Italy which was also absolutely fabulous. Our hotel was right on the lake and our room faced the lake looking onto the mountains on the other side. We did quite a lot of sight-seeing but also a lot of lazing around y the pool which was just what we needed after the hectic time leading up to the wedding. You can see a full view of my dress here:

Now that I am back from honeymoon I am planning my autumn sewing. Autumn is my favourite season and I love the new fashions that are coming into the shops right now, added to the fact that I haven't sewn much over the past months means I am really fired up to get going! As seems to be the fashion on a few blogs at the moment, I have made myself a little plan:

A winter coat: I have never made one before so this will be a new challenge. I have purchased Butterick 5145 and bought some lovely black wool with cashmere for it.
A casual capsule wardrobe. I am considering joining in the wardrobe in a week contest on Artisans Square. I am gathering my ideas at the moment but I am thinking about a Boden inspired collection.
A Chanel Jacket: inspired by Coco before Chanel I have joined the Chanel Jacket sew along. I have made one before and I want to improve on my technique. I have also worn that jacket loads ( once a week) so I am really looking forward to another one.
A tailored suit: I really want to improve the quality of my garments and learn some couture techniques.
A cape: I wanted to make one last year and I didn't get around to it. I have noticed that they are still big news this autumn. so it is definitely on my list
A shift dress: quite frankly I don't know how I have NOT made one yet!
Narrow leg trousers: even though I am slim, I am pear shaped and have not got into the skinny leg jeans thing but I think I might give these a go.
Shirts: I have worn the red blouse I made a lot so want to make some more. I am loving the checked shirts that are in the shops right now and I want to start with that one.
Pencil Skirts: again, something I have had success with before and I want to try some new patterns.
TNTs: I want some of the patterns I use this autumn to become TNTs so that I make better fitting garments.

WOW: this is quite a list!

My other target is to blog more regularly so I will keep you updated on my progress. My first job is to make my muslin for my coat.

Ebay purchase

2009-06-12T06:05:00.000-07:00

You know how it goes. You are mooching away on ebay and something catches your eye. A few clicks and a few pounds later and you have the joy of being the winning bid on a little lot of goodies. I love vintage haberdashery and have a few little bits already. I had the idea of expanding my collection and making a picture out of the ephemera. What I bought from ebay was the contents of someone's sewing basket. I love the idea of a lady collecting, using and reusing these things. Some special things are the bird pin cushion, the wooden reels of sewing thread and the linen lace edging. The threads on the bottom right are "The Lamb All Wool Mending" and "Coats Chain Filosheen" for darning all kinds of hosiery etc.

I am sure I have see pictures in shadow boxes made something like this:

If you like things like this and have serious money to spend check out Sajou, the French haberdashers.

A trio of small things

2009-05-31T14:02:00.000-07:00

The first thing I have made is a knitting needle case. I have already made one of these for myself, this one is for my knitting chum. There are many knitting needle cases around but most of them are a roll design. This is like a giant pencil case, 18" long. The fabric is designed by Heather Bailey.

You can see the lining in this picture:

I made this clutch bag to use on my wedding day and its just big enough for my lipstick and compact. I bought the pattern from etsy. Michelle also has a fantastic blog.

I am going to make one for my bridesmaid to match her dress. I first saw this pattern being used on this lovely blog.

This little hat demonstrates my new hobby: knitting! I have made it for a work colleague who is expecting her first baby soon. The pattern is by Debbie Bliss using Baby Cashmerino wool. She doesn't know (or isn't telling) the sex of the baby so I chose this soft green and white as it would look lovely on a boy or girl.

I am still working on my second summer top. The body is finished but the cowl neck thingy still needs some tweaking to get it right.

I'm back sewing

2009-05-26T13:05:00.001-07:00

Work commitments and planning our wedding have prevented me from sewing much during the past 6 months or so. I have some more time at the moment and I have been inspired by some great blogs out there so the time has come to dust off my sewing machine and whip up a few things. I have a few summer tops in the pipe line. You know the thing: make it in an evening, no complicated fitting and lovely crisp cottons that don't slip all over the place. First up is Simplicity 3692. I love the Built By Wendy patterns and I have her Sew U books still waiting to be used.

I used a blue and white checked cotton. After reading the reviews of this pattern I knew it was going to come out very big, even though I was using a woven and not a knit. I cut a size 6 rather than my usual 8-10 and even then I took it in a little on the waist to give it more shape. I added a self tie belt which is 1.5 inches wide cut the whole width of the fabric. I made view C, adding white lace trim and three white buttons. The photo below is not that great (of me or the top) but it gives you the general idea. I will try to get a better one, and a close up of the trims I have used later.

The next top I have planned is Simplicity 2593, one of the new Cynthia Rowley patterns. have a lovely printed cotton voile to use.

2009-04-09T00:53:00.000-07:00

Michelle Obama: Love her style

On her recent visit to the UK to accompany President Obama for the G20 summit, Michelle Obama wowed the UK with her style. It is so refreshing to see a confident, well-dressed woman who obviously takes great delight in her clothes. I think the phrase is that she wears her clothes, not her clothes wearing her. Her clothes were a great contrast to the drab mannish power suits of the likes of Angela Merkel and Hilary Clinton. I wonder, why is it that women have copied the business suit from men without very much refinement, could one of the women world leaders ever turn up to a summit meeting in a skirt and cardigan combo?

These images and details of her outfits are from Mrs O.org (edited: Mrs O blog has changed so I have taken some of the images out)

J.Crew Constellation sweater in ivory with beading and sequins paired with Dazzling dots mint green pencil skirt. This outfit sings like spring. Great jewelry too.

Ivory and black silk crepe dress by Isabel Toledo, paired with a black Azzedine Alaia cardigan, and black satin opera coat by Jason Wu. Another great little cardigan. Monochrome is always stylish.

Floral silk jacquard dress with black mesh trim and coordinating, reverse print coat, both by Thakoon. A very polished look which is professional and ladylike.

Black knit and ruched dress worn with black bolero jacket, both by Azzedine Alaia. This is so beautiful....

Fitted Narciso Rodriguez black knit dress paired with Azzedine Alaia black bolero jacket and black kitten heels. What woman would not want to look like this? I need to get to the gym...

Oversize white bow blouse by Moschino, worn with a black pencil skirt by Michael Kors, black cardigan and studded belt, both by Azzedine Alaia. Another pencil skirt and cardigan combo. I think the belt that sits high on her waist is one of her key looks too.So, what are the key elements of her style?

Short, fitted cardigans
Fit and body-skimming clothes
Pencil skirts, as well as A line skirts
Belts that sit high on the waist
Black
Colour: no "Michelle purple" on this trip though
Polish: very well chosen accessories
Shift dresses
Kitten heels
Those arms!

I would love to create a wardrobe inspired by Mrs O..... more research and a trawl through my patterns is required. A mini wardrobe may be difficult though: even though she often wears clothes in different combinations, one of the things I love is that she wears so much colour which may be hard to coordinate.

Many thanks for your votes!

2008-09-14T05:36:00.000-07:00

The votes have been cast in the Mini Wardrobe contest and I gained 31 votes! I am totally amazed by this, especially as it is the first time I have entered a competition. My only other attempt was a full SWAP and I didn't even come close to the finishing line. I think it is a major achievement to complete the four garments and the winner, Adrianne thoroughly deserved to win for her fantastic wardrobe. I particularly like the fact that she had a variety of looks from smart casual to formal from just her four garments. You can see al of the entries at Pattern Review.

I have been able to finish my Vogue 8426 skirt now that the contest is over. I started this at the beginning of the summer but I put it on hold when I was completing my wardrobe. I based the design on a skirt that I loved in Karen Millen, but at £120.00 I decided to make my own version! The shirt below is Karen Millen though, a girl has to treat herself sometimes!

This is the second time I have made this skirt so I knew that the fit was right. I made View C this time which has 5 pleats at the back:

The pattern goes together superbly well and the instructions are very clear. The only alterations to them were that I used an invisible zipper using my new invisible zipper foot. This enables you to get much closer to the zip and I am pleased with finish I got for a first attempt. I also top-stitched the seams using a zig-zag stitch. I used topstitching thread but it is VERY thick and if I was to do this again, I would just use double thread. My other alteration was to the hem, I took a narrower hem allowance and topstitched the hem on the machine, at the same time, attaching narrow lace that I had pinned from the right side. At the seam allowances, I caught the hem allowance by hand to stop it falling forward.

I wore this skirt for work on Friday and received some really nice comments. I would definitely recommend this pattern to you.

Mini Wardrobe

2008-08-31T03:34:00.000-07:00

I am chuffed to bits that I have finished my wardrobe on time to enter the competition and more importantly that my garments have turned out so well. I have worn my blouse already and I know that I will wear the others when I am back at work. I also think I have enough of the Donegal tweed to make a waistcoat. As I have chosen simple classic styles, I will wear these garments in loads of other combinations too.

Fourth Wardrobe item: Donegal tweed trousers

2008-08-31T03:26:00.000-07:00

This is another version of the brown trousers I made a few weeks ago from Vogue 1035. I made them in a black and white Donegal tweed wool fabric which goes really well with my Chanel Jacket. I think this is the first time I have used a pattern a second time and it certainly gives you confidence knowing a pattern will fit.

LBS not LBD

2008-08-31T03:04:00.000-07:00

Burda World of Fashion 08-2008-121

My initial plan was to make a little black dress to go under my Chanel Jacket but I decided that I have lots of dresses and not many skirts so the plan changed. This skirt is super easy and fit really well with just a slight adjustment on the hip side seam. I know that it looks creased in these pictures but it does not in real life, I think there was a lighting problem when we took the photos.

The skirt has eight panels in it and I love the shaping at the bottom which fall like godets. The pattern is also lined and I used a soft knit lining which feels great when you wear it.

Oh button where art thou?

2008-08-31T02:10:00.000-07:00

Burda World of Fashion 01-2008-108

This is the second piece of my mini-wardrobe. I loved the versions of this blouse that other bloggers had made so wanted to try out the pattern. I had also seen a blouse in Reiss with a mandarin collar which had a long tie that could be buttoned onto the collar at the back (sorry no picture available). I made the 108 version but added the stand collar from the 107 blouse. I made a tie which was about 2'' wide and the length of the fabric. The tie has a buttonhole in the centre so it can fasten on to the collar.

I love the blouse, which is the first blouse I have ever made. The only adjustments to the pattern were at the shoulder which I narrowed by about 1/2'' and raised by about 1/4''.

As the title of this post suggests, I am missing a button or two. I did not buy enough in the first place, went back to get some more and now I cannot find those ones so it is back to the shop for a third time for me.......

A little inspiration

2008-08-20T12:21:00.000-07:00

Love the look on the right! Just posting this here so I will remember it. I saw on here. Not sure about the yellow tights but I love the shirt, which I could make from the BWOF I have just used in my mini wardrobe.

Jersey Dress: Simplicity 4076

2008-08-20T11:12:00.000-07:00

I know that virtually everybody has made this pattern but here is my version of it. I love the twist dresses that are about this season but do not like the way most of them make you look pregnant so I decided to use this pattern as it does not have gathers in the width of the fabric under your bust which I feel gives the "with child" look. I made this on the second of my workshops with Janet Moville and she really helped me with the fit and gave me lots of tips about sewing knits, which I needed after my less than great success previously. Again, I really recommend her classes.
As you ca see in this shot, I added a back centre seam to improve the fit. Janet also showed me how to add a facing at the front neckline to give a cleaner finish and so you can't see the wrong side when the fabric turns over for the twist. This is really easy to do, simply add 2 inches to the front neckline but taper it to nothing at the point where the twist is, this is then just folded over and caught in the shoulder seam. How good is that! I also moved the point of the twist up so it was a little less revealing. The skirt part was added just by a simple A line at the bottom of the pattern.
I am not sure whether this really works with my Chanel jacket. I think the colours look great together but I am a little concerned that the necklines don't work.

I am making good progress with my mini-wardrobe. I just have to sew the buttons on my blouse and hem my skirt. Oh yes, I have changed the LBD to LB Skirt as I already have quite a few dresses but not many skirts. I will post photos soon. That just leaves the trousers....

Chanel Jacket:

2008-08-07T00:19:00.000-07:00

This is the first garment of my Mini Wardrobe. It is a Chanel type jacket made from a tweed from Linton Tweeds. Linton Tweeds made the original fabrics for Coco Chanel and still produce fabrics for Chanel. The fabrics are all woven in Carlisle where they have a fabric shop. This fabric is not one of their Chanel designs (though I did purchase another design that was for £5.00 a metre!) but the quality is absolutely superb and beautiful to sew with. On the one hand it was springy so you cannot see the quilting lines, on the other hand it was really easy to press and manipulate.

I used Vogue 7975 to get the high arm hole and princess seams. I made view C. I knew that I wanted to avoid the boxy jacket look that we had in the 1980's so I altered my muslin to narrow the shoulders and generally made the jacket more fitted. I also made a petite alteration.

I made it using what I would describe as a shortened version of the couture methods. I did not bother with the 2'' seam allowances and basting the stitching lines etc. I just cut the pattern out as normal and quilted the lining to the jacket at 1'' intervals. If you are careful, your fabrics won't move though I would advise stay-stitching to prevent fraying.I was helped by the vertical lines on the fabric which I used as stitching guides. I then sewed the jacket together on the machine and the lining by hand using small stitches. I added black braid 1cm from the edge. Even taking a few shortcuts, this was a very time consuming project and I would only recommend it if you like hand sewing. To get the shape I wanted I haven't used buttons, just one fur closure at the waist to nip it in.

I am not sure whether you can make out the quilting lines, but they are there! I also thought I would make a special effort with the lining! I now have to decide whether to add patch pockets, the chain on the inside hem and a corsage. I think I will mull these ideas over whilst I am getting on with my second garment: my red blouse.

Two new garments

2008-07-30T00:42:00.000-07:00

Theses trousers are made from the Vogue pattern 1035. I made them during a sewing course at the Modern Approach Sewing School with Janet Moville. I cannot recommend Janet highly enough. I went on a two day course where you could sew a garment of your choice. I learned so much from Janet, for example how to make welt pockets, sew a fly zip and the best way to hem a straight edge so that it does not show through. The absolute best thing though is the fit of these trousers. Janet fit my toile to me and then showed me how to alter the tissue pattern so I can make them again in the future. It is hard to get wider leg trousers to look good when you are petite. You can see how good the fit is:

The second garment is a knit dress from Vogue 1027.

I bought the fabric from Hot Patterns Ebay store. I made the dress size 8 at the top and 10 at the bottom but I should have made a size 6-8 as the pattern comes up very big. I followed Christina's tutorial about sewing the ties double so that you cannot see the wrong side of the fabric. You can see her guidance here.

I am pleased with the dress, particularly the way I have used the stripes in different direction, and I like wearing it, but I have realised that I need to learn how to handle knit fabrics properly. I haven't got the grainlines lined up properly (as ou can see on the back view), the neck seam does gape a little ( I have had to put a stitch to hold it) and the hem is wavy. The fabric was generally very difficult to sew because it kept rolling up.

I have made a purchase, therefore!

I have seen a few good reviews of this book. Wendy, as in "Built by Wendy" explains how to sew with Knits. There are also three patens included. Whilst I was on Amazon, her other book using wovens just happened to fall into my shopping basket at the same time....now how did that happen?

I am also investigating overlockers which I have been dreaming of for a long time. This could get expensive!

Pattern Review Mini Wardrobe Competition

2008-07-29T00:43:00.001-07:00

After failing to complete the full 11 garment SWAP Timmel Fabrics competition what with getting engaged and starting a new job etc, I have decided to have a go at this one. I was so impressed with all the Chanel Jackets that people have made that I really wanted to complete one and the fabric is a gorgeous tweed from Linton Tweeds in Carlisle which still supply Chanel and many others with fabric. I am currently trying to fit my muslin of Vogue 7975 because I want it to be quite fitted rather than boxy. To go with it, I am going to make some charcoal grey trousers (more about this pattern later!) and an LBD. I really love this Burda blouse as made by Christina and Laura. My only concern with the blouse is that it won't work under the jacket so this might get changed for another one.

Autumn 2008 Patterns: a few thoughts

2008-07-10T00:36:00.000-07:00

I am disappointed in the collection from McCalls. Haven't we seen most of these things before? I for one am fed up with all the smock designs. Just move them all into the maternity section please and bring back clothes that enhance women's figures rather than shrouding them in tents. Just two patterns make the cut for me and to be honest even these aren't particularly original.

M5075 even though the dress on the model looks like Versace on acid, if you look at the sketches I think this is a cute dress. I still like bell sleeves and the fact that this design has a defined waist. I envision one of these in a nice jewel coloured fine wool crepe / poly blend. Check out the fabric requirements though, it is too early in the morning to get my head around that lot!

M5711: I think this is a great jacket with just the right amount of swing! A very modern shape but not the sort of thing that is going to hang off you. Nice details in the pockets and the sleeve cuffs.

Let the holidays....and the sewing begin!

2008-07-08T08:52:00.000-07:00

Well, after I tried to complete the SWAP contest, I ran out of time, I believe I have suitable excuses though. I applied for and got a new job, and I have got engaged. So all in all, very little sewing has been done.

I have abandoned the swap but I am currently in the process of completing a UFO (V1027) that I was working on at the time of the interruptions.

I will post pictures when I have completed it. Just the hem and a few bits and bobs to finish now.

I will break up for the summer tomorrow and I have loads of sewing planned for my summer holidays. My goal is to take my time over each garment and really improve the quality of my sewing and the fit of my garments. To help I have ordered Vogue Sewing as a much needed reference book:

I am also trying to book myself on some courses, which I should know about soon.

Garments Three and Four Completed

2008-01-16T12:14:00.001-08:00

First of all: the photo is not a good one (of me or the clothes). Note to self: I must work on my posing and pouting abilities.

Black Pencil Skirt (Simplicity 3631). The fabric is a black wool suiting with a touch of stretch in it. I made a size 10 and I didn't have to make any adjustments for fit. I did raise the waistband using the article in Sew Stylish which used this wardrobe pattern. I added 3 inches top skirt edge by flipping over the skirt pattern, this was fairly easy to do but I have to say making a facing was rather a hit and miss affair. I also aded some sew-in boning to the side seams of the facing to ensure the skirt dosen't wrinkle. I will make this skirt again but with the regular waist. If I want to make a high waisted skirt, I will get a specific pattern.

White embellished top (Simplicity 3835) This is the same pattern I used for my Christmas dress so I was sure of the fit. Again, I made a size 10 and didn't have to make any alterations. I lowerd the neckline a little and I added a placket which is about 3'' by 5''. I then decorated this with black velvet ric-rac and vintage buttons. The fabric is a fancy woven cotton mix. I can also wear this top as a tunic over trousers.

When I am not sewing, I walk, fell walking that is. Here are a couple of pics from last weekend's walk in the Peak District:

It looks fantastic weather in the photograph but there was a bitterly cold wind and it was VERY boogy. Ten miles later......

Second Garment complete: Denim Skirt

2008-01-03T01:35:00.000-08:00

The skirt pattern is Vogue8426 view A. I made a size 10 and I am really pleased with the fit, especially as this was rather a pot luck affair because the waist/hip measurements were not given with the pattern (why oh why???). Fortunately it fits really well and I didn't have to make any adjustments. The pattern went together really well and the instructions were very easy to follow.

I am not sure that it is very clear from this photo but the seams are curved which give a great fitted shape. I used one pleat in the back because I thought the denim might be a bit thick for three but I definitely want to make another of these skirts with three pleats in a wool suiting fabric. You can see the back skirt construction more clearly here.

I would totally recommend this pattern. For a little more effort than a simple pencil skirt you get a very stylish, sexy and well-cut skirt. I love everything about this skirt. and to be honest, my photos don't do it justice.

First Garment of my SWAP completed

2007-12-29T12:36:00.000-08:00

The jacket is Simplicity3631 and it is the first part of my Sewing With a Plan. I made it in a burnt red cord from Timmel Fabric. I really enjoyed sewing this pattern. I made a size 10 and the only alterations I made was to narrow the sleeves and lengthen the belt. I narrowed each front and back sleeve piece by 6 inches, that makes a whopping 12 inch off each sleeve. I am only 5"4 and I just felt that the extra-wide kimono sleeves would drown me. To do this I measured 6 inches in from the seam on the lower edge of the sleeve and then used the hip curve of the skirt pattern to draw the new cutting line. There are full instructions in the Sew Stylish magazine that featured this pattern. I also lengthened the belt by about 6 inches following the other reviews on Pattern Review.

I am really pleased with the fit of the jacket and the modern cut and styling. If I were to make the jacket again I would do so in a more drapy fabric, and possibly try some of the variations in Sew Stylish magazine.

As the jacket is not lined, and I do not have an overlocker, I bound the seam allowances with satin tape.

All in all, I am really pleased with my jacket and feel that I am off to a good start. It spurred me on to go shopping for the rest of my material for my plan. The mission was successful and I am going to work on my storyboard soon.

New Christmas Dress

2007-12-24T04:28:00.000-08:00

I am really pleased with the way this dress has turned out. I am just getting back into sewing after many years "time out" so it is quite a relief when a pattern turns out. The pattern is Simplicity 3835. I made a size 10, the mini dress and I didn't have to make one single adjustment to the pattern. I am really pleased with the fit and I love the 60s feel of the dress. The fabric is a mystery satin print.

The photo above was taken just before we went out for a night out in Edinburgh where we went for a great weekend. This was taken by the waiter in Browns where we had a fantastic meal. The devilishly handsome chap with me is Craig, my boyfriend.

decision made

2007-10-13T01:58:00.000-07:00

This is it!

I have made a complete shift in my thinking regarding my SWAP. When the newest Boden catalogue dropped onto the doormat it just spoke to me! My plan is going to be based around charcoal and berry colours, with a berry red velvet jacket and scrummy smart casual clothers "a la Boden" to go with it.

So, with the main planning decision out of the way, its down to the fabrics and individual garment choices. I feel a shopping trip coming on.....

decisions, decisions, decisions!

2007-10-09T08:54:00.000-07:00

I am loving all the chat on Artisan Square and seeing everyone's plans. I feel mine are rather confused, especially as I cannot decide upon a wardrobe pattern. So, here are the ones I am considering. I am planning my swap to be a spring wardrobe suitable for going on holiday at Easter. I am thinking of navy, white and lemon as my colour scheme but would also consider adding beige and/or red into the mix. Then again I am also taken with the idea of a black and white theme! I definitely don't want business wear and a lot of the patterns have a formal jacket.

I am not too keen on the jacket (too formal) or skirt (too full) but I like the top, dress and wide leg pants.

I like the dress and the top, as well as the skirt. Putting them side by side like this has made me realise how similar they are. Wondering if this will be a more flattering design when made up because it is fitted under the bust.

My other option is to choose a pattern with basics in it and add to it with more individual pieces.

I have actually just purchased this pattern and I have ordered the Sew Stylish magazine in which it featured so this is yet another option.I have not seen the article yet, but Erica B has some photo's of the garments.

How do I decide?

SWAP contest 2008

2007-09-30T11:32:00.000-07:00

The competition rules for Timmel Fabrics have just been posted. They are as follows:

Here are the SWAP rules for 2008
1. Fabric/pattern purchase minimum value of $25 Canadian to be made from Timmel Fabrics between Oct. 1, 2007 and March 1, 2008. This fabric or pattern must be featured as one item in the SWAP.
2. Each SWAP must consist of 11 garments. See below for descriptions.
3. A print, plaid, check, or stripe must be used for one of the garments. This can be used in a top, or bottom, or even jacket, but it must coordinate with the other pieces. And you can make your own print (if you wish) by embellishing your fabric yourself by painting, stenciling, stitching.
4. You are allowed to use one garment that you have purchased (i.e. not sewed). And you can knit, crochet, or weave one garment if you choose.
5. All garments must be made between January 1/08 and April 11/08 with the exception of two garments which can be made previous to the time period. You are also allowed to use one garment that has been purchased.
6. 2008 Twist – Three garments must be made from one "wardrobe" pattern. You must make three uniquely different garments from that pattern; making one type of garment three times will not qualify. These patterns are available from all the major pattern companies and they usually include a jacket, dress and/or skirt, pants, blouse or top. For our purposes, any pattern with at least three different garments that work together will be counted as a "wardrobe" pattern. The patterns labelled "wardrobe patterns" often have 4 or 5 garments in them; but as long as the pattern has three different garments, it will qualify. The purpose of this year's rule is to encourage making the best use of a pattern; in other words, work it for what it is worth. The other 8 garments can come from any other pattern or patterns or be self-drafted.
7. This year is back to one type of SWAP. This consists of 11 garments, 4 bottoms (skirts and/or pants), 6 tops (2 should be more like blouses than just tees), and 1 jacket that will work with all the tops and bottoms. This gives you a total of 48 possible combinations. However, you can substitute a dress or dresses for two of the tops if you wish. Therefore, your SWAP can be 1 jacket, 4 bottoms, 4 tops, 2 dresses or it can be 1 jacket, 4 bottoms, 5 tops and 1 dress. The jacket must work with all combinations. In the case of a jumper, this would count as a "bottom" item, in that it must work with all the tops and it must also be able to be worn with the jacket. A vest is counted as a jacket since it is usually worn over a top. If it can be worn solo, count it as a top.
A jacket does not have to be a tailored jacket. It can be a lace overshirt that you wear over your other garments, it can be a shrug, or shawl, poncho or cape. It can also be an overcoat if you wish to make that. It could also be a knitted or crocheted sweater. It must work with all the tops and bottoms (and dresses if you make them).

Look here for full details and links to articles about SWAP's: Sewing With a Plan.