Chanel Jacket:

This is the first garment of my Mini Wardrobe. It is a Chanel type jacket made from a tweed from Linton Tweeds. Linton Tweeds made the original fabrics for Coco Chanel and still produce fabrics for Chanel. The fabrics are all woven in Carlisle where they have a fabric shop. This fabric is not one of their Chanel designs (though I did purchase another design that was for £5.00 a metre!) but the quality is absolutely superb and beautiful to sew with. On the one hand it was springy so you cannot see the quilting lines, on the other hand it was really easy to press and manipulate.

I used Vogue 7975 to get the high arm hole and princess seams. I made view C. I knew that I wanted to avoid the boxy jacket look that we had in the 1980's so I altered my muslin to narrow the shoulders and generally made the jacket more fitted. I also made a petite alteration.

I made it using what I would describe as a shortened version of the couture methods. I did not bother with the 2'' seam allowances and basting the stitching lines etc. I just cut the pattern out as normal and quilted the lining to the jacket at 1'' intervals. If you are careful, your fabrics won't move though I would advise stay-stitching to prevent fraying.I was helped by the vertical lines on the fabric which I used as stitching guides. I then sewed the jacket together on the machine and the lining by hand using small stitches. I added black braid 1cm from the edge. Even taking a few shortcuts, this was a very time consuming project and I would only recommend it if you like hand sewing. To get the shape I wanted I haven't used buttons, just one fur closure at the waist to nip it in.

I am not sure whether you can make out the quilting lines, but  they are there! I also thought I would make a special effort with the lining! I now have to decide whether to add patch pockets, the chain on the inside hem and a corsage. I think I will mull these ideas over whilst I am getting on with my second garment: my red blouse.