Sunday, 31 August 2008

Mini Wardrobe

I am chuffed to bits that I have finished my wardrobe on time to enter the competition and more importantly that my garments have turned out so well. I have worn my blouse already and I know that I will wear the others when I am back at work.  I also think I have enough of the Donegal tweed to make a waistcoat. As I have chosen simple classic styles, I will wear these garments in loads of other combinations too.

Fourth Wardrobe item: Donegal tweed trousers

This is another version of the brown trousers I made a few weeks ago from Vogue 1035. I made them in a black and white Donegal tweed wool fabric which goes really well with my Chanel Jacket. I think this is the first time I have used a pattern a second time and it certainly gives you confidence knowing a pattern will fit.


Burda World of Fashion 08-2008-121
My initial plan was to make a little black dress to go under my Chanel Jacket but I decided that I have lots of dresses and not many skirts so the plan changed. This skirt is super easy and fit really well with just a slight adjustment on the hip side seam. I know that it looks creased in these pictures  but it does not in real life, I think there was a lighting problem when we took the photos.

The skirt has eight panels in it and I love the shaping at the bottom which fall like godets. The pattern is also lined and I used a soft knit lining which feels great when you wear it.

Oh button where art thou?

Burda World of Fashion 01-2008-108

This is the second piece of my mini-wardrobe. I loved the versions of this blouse that other bloggers had made so wanted to try out the pattern.  I had also seen a blouse in Reiss with a mandarin collar which had a long tie that could be buttoned onto the collar at the back (sorry no picture available). I made the 108 version but added the stand collar from the 107 blouse. I made a tie which was about 2'' wide and the length of the fabric. The tie has a buttonhole in the centre so it can fasten on to the collar.

I love the blouse, which is the first blouse I have ever made. The only adjustments to the pattern were at the shoulder which I narrowed by about 1/2'' and raised by about 1/4''.

As the title of this post suggests, I am missing a button or two. I did not buy enough in the first place, went back to get some more and now I cannot find those ones so it is back to the shop for a third time for me.......

Wednesday, 20 August 2008

A little inspiration

Love the look on the right! Just posting this here so I will remember it. I saw on here. Not sure about the yellow tights but I love the shirt, which I could make from the BWOF I have just used in my mini wardrobe.

Jersey Dress: Simplicity 4076

I know that virtually everybody has made this pattern but here is my version of it. I love the twist dresses that are about this season but do not like the way most of them make you look pregnant so I decided to use this pattern as it does not have gathers in the width of the fabric under your bust which I feel gives the "with child" look. I made this on the second of my workshops with Janet Moville and she really helped me with the fit and gave me lots of tips about sewing knits, which I needed after my less than great success previously. Again, I really recommend her classes.
As you ca see in this shot, I added a back centre seam to improve the fit. Janet also showed me how to add a facing at the front neckline to give a cleaner finish and so you can't see the wrong side when the fabric turns over for the twist. This is really easy to do, simply add 2 inches to the front neckline but taper it to nothing at the point where the twist is, this is then just folded over and caught in the shoulder seam. How good is that! I also moved the point of the twist up so it was a little less revealing. The skirt part was added just by a simple A line at the bottom of the pattern.
I am not sure whether this really works with my Chanel jacket. I think the colours look great together but I am a little concerned that the necklines don't work. 

I am making good progress with my mini-wardrobe.  I just have to sew the buttons on my blouse and hem my skirt. Oh yes, I have changed the LBD to LB Skirt as I already have quite a few dresses but not many skirts. I will post photos soon. That just leaves the trousers....

Thursday, 7 August 2008

Chanel Jacket:

This is the first garment of my Mini Wardrobe. It is a Chanel type jacket made from a tweed from Linton Tweeds. Linton Tweeds made the original fabrics for Coco Chanel and still produce fabrics for Chanel. The fabrics are all woven in Carlisle where they have a fabric shop. This fabric is not one of their Chanel designs (though I did purchase another design that was for £5.00 a metre!) but the quality is absolutely superb and beautiful to sew with. On the one hand it was springy so you cannot see the quilting lines, on the other hand it was really easy to press and manipulate.

I used Vogue 7975 to get the high arm hole and princess seams. I made view C. I knew that I wanted to avoid the boxy jacket look that we had in the 1980's so I altered my muslin to narrow the shoulders and generally made the jacket more fitted. I also made a petite alteration.

I made it using what I would describe as a shortened version of the couture methods. I did not bother with the 2'' seam allowances and basting the stitching lines etc. I just cut the pattern out as normal and quilted the lining to the jacket at 1'' intervals. If you are careful, your fabrics won't move though I would advise stay-stitching to prevent fraying.I was helped by the vertical lines on the fabric which I used as stitching guides. I then sewed the jacket together on the machine and the lining by hand using small stitches. I added black braid 1cm from the edge. Even taking a few shortcuts, this was a very time consuming project and I would only recommend it if you like hand sewing. To get the shape I wanted I haven't used buttons, just one fur closure at the waist to nip it in.

I am not sure whether you can make out the quilting lines, but  they are there! I also thought I would make a special effort with the lining! I now have to decide whether to add patch pockets, the chain on the inside hem and a corsage. I think I will mull these ideas over whilst I am getting on with my second garment: my red blouse.